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Resources · Recovery Guides

Data recovery guides.

Straightforward, device-by-device guidance on what to do — and what to avoid — the instant a drive gives out.

Written by our engineers
since 2002 in Guildford
HDD, SSD, RAID & more
// the golden rule

In doubt? Cut the power.

More data is lost in the aftermath than in the failure itself — by carrying on regardless. Stopping is the most useful thing you can do.

Power off
at the first odd noise
Don't
run software on a dying drive
Never
open the drive yourself
Label
RAID / NAS disks in order
// first five minutes

Your drive just failed? Begin here.

Whatever the device, the same five moves guard your data and your chances of a full recovery. Work through them before you try anything else.

01

Stop using it

Every file saved, photo taken or app opened can write over data that's still recoverable. Put the device down.

02

Power it down

Clicking, beeping or refusing to spin? Kill the power at once — every restart of a failing drive risks making the harm permanent.

03

Don't run software

Run over a physically failing drive, recovery and "repair" tools keep it spinning and hammer the weak spots — often turning a recoverable drive into a write-off.

04

Leave it sealed, skip the DIY

Skip the freezer tricks, don't open the casing, don't swap circuit boards — these myths cause real, often permanent damage.

05

Get a free diagnostic

Bring it in or send it fully insured. We'll tell you precisely what's recoverable, and the cost, before any chargeable work starts.

// jump to a guide

Guides, device by device.

Pick the device you're dealing with to see its symptoms, the dos and don'ts, and how we recover that kind of media.

// hard-drive recovery

Recovering a hard drive.

A spinning hard drive can go two very different ways. A logical failure — data deleted, formatted or corrupted — leaves the mechanics working and is usually the safer kind to recover. A physical one — dead electronics, a seized motor, failed heads — needs bench work, and one wrong move can end it. Half the job is telling the two apart.

!Warning signs
  • A SMART warning at boot
  • Long freezes and painful slowness opening files
  • It vanishes from the BIOS, or drops out mid-use
  • It won't spin up, or spins a moment then halts
  • A grinding, beeping or clicking noise on start-up
Do this
  • Keep it cool, still and unplugged until it's looked at
  • Note down what happened — a drop, a power cut, or it just died
  • Stop the moment you hear anything odd
  • While it still reads, copy your most important files off first
Avoid this
  • The freezer trick, or knocking the drive
  • Opening the casing or swapping the board yourself
  • Running repair or recovery software across a failing disk
  • Repeatedly power-cycling a clicking or dead-spun drive

In-house, we fit matched donor heads and parts, image fragile drives sector by sector, and rebuild the file systems that have broken.

More on hard drive recovery →
// ssd & nvme recovery

Recovering an SSD or NVMe.

With no moving parts, an SSD never clicks or grinds — it simply dies, usually all at once and unannounced. Firmware faults, controller lock-ups and "sudden death" head the list. Two quirks separate SSDs from hard drives and both count: TRIM, which erases deleted data for good within minutes, and the charge that flash slowly loses while it sits unpowered.

!Warning signs
  • It failed during a firmware update, or just after
  • It goes read-only, or crawls then drops off entirely
  • It reports the wrong capacity, or reads 0 bytes
  • It vanishes from the BIOS, often overnight
Do this
  • If an SSD sits unused long-term, power it up occasionally
  • After an accidental delete, shut down fast — TRIM acts in minutes
  • Write nothing more to the drive from this point
Avoid this
  • Assuming a deleted file is still recoverable on an SSD
  • Running secure-erase, repair or optimisation tools
  • Keeping the PC running after a delete (TRIM)
The TRIM catch: on most SSDs, the instant a file is deleted, the drive starts clearing those flash cells within minutes — reboot or not. If it mattered, power down immediately and write nothing further.

Working in technical mode, our engineers read the NAND straight off, rebuild the translator tables, and operate at controller level to pull data back from dead SSDs.

More on SSD & NVMe recovery →
// external drive recovery

Recovering an external drive.

Strip away the case and an external is just a normal hard drive or SSD, so every one of those faults applies — plus two extras: the little USB-to-SATA bridge that connects it, and the hardware encryption plenty of enclosures add themselves. That encryption is precisely why yanking the drive out and reading it raw tends to hand you nothing but scrambled data.

!Warning signs
  • The light comes on but nothing mounts
  • After a knock or fall it clicks, or stops mounting
  • Windows or macOS prompts you to format it
  • No computer, cable or port will show it
Do this
  • Start with a fresh cable and a different port — it rules out the obvious
  • If it's taken a knock or is clicking, stop and post it in
  • Keep in mind a lot of enclosures encrypt at the bridge
Avoid this
  • Formatting it when prompted
  • "Shucking" an encrypted drive to read it raw — you'll get only ciphertext
  • Repeatedly re-plugging a dropped or clicking drive

We route around dead bridge boards, decrypt bridge-encrypted volumes, and take on head and motor work for dropped units — all in-house.

More on external drive recovery →
// usb stick recovery

Recovering a USB stick.

A USB stick is flash memory on a tiny controller chip. Happily, when one fails it's normally the controller or a snapped connector at fault while the memory with your data survives intact. Less happily, the controller scrambles that data, so getting it back is specialist work — never something for a "repair" utility.

!Warning signs
  • It connects, then randomly drops out
  • The connector is snapped, loose or bent
  • It won't open until you format it
  • Nothing shows, and no light comes on at all
Do this
  • Note what was stored on it
  • If the connector snapped, keep both pieces
  • Set it aside the instant anything seems wrong
Avoid this
  • Trusting a "USB repair" tool that writes back to it
  • Reformatting it
  • Jiggling or forcing a loose connector, which fractures the board

We read the memory chip itself — chip-off, or through a monolithic stick's internal test pads — and reconstruct your files from the raw flash.

More on USB stick recovery →
// memory card recovery

Recovering an SD or memory card.

Two things corrupt memory cards more than any other: being pulled out (or the camera dying) mid-write, or an accidental in-camera format. Either way, the photos and video almost always survive — it's the index pointing at them that breaks. The trick is not overwriting them before recovery.

!Warning signs
  • It's stuck write-protected or read-only
  • A computer won't mount it
  • Files read as 0 bytes, or the card looks empty
  • The camera reports a card error, or asks you to format it
Do this
  • Flip the lock switch to read-only to protect it
  • If it was formatted by accident, don't reuse the card
  • Stop taking photos at once — each new one may overwrite a lost shot
Avoid this
  • Allowing the camera to “repair” or rebuild it
  • Accepting the camera’s format prompt
  • Continuing to shoot on the card

We image the card, carve the photos and video back out by their file signatures, then rebuild the folders — across XQD, CF, microSD and SD.

More on memory card recovery →
// mac & macbook recovery

Recovering a Mac or MacBook.

Two things complicate a modern Mac. First, APFS, Apple's file system, which a failed update can leave in a broken state. Second, the T2 or Apple-silicon security chip that encrypts the storage — storage soldered to the logic board on recent models. Together they mean your data reads as files only while that board lives, and only if you hold the key.

!Warning signs
  • It sits demanding your FileVault password or key
  • Liquid has been spilt on it
  • It won't start after a macOS update
  • A question-mark folder flashes as it boots
Do this
  • Record which macOS version it was, and what went wrong
  • Set a liquid-hit Mac aside immediately
  • Store your FileVault recovery key safely — without it, no one can unlock encrypted data
Avoid this
  • Presuming the soldered SSD survived just because the rest of the Mac didn’t
  • Reinstalling macOS over your data
  • Leaving a liquid-hit board powered — corrosion keeps spreading

For Macs with a Fusion or removable drive, we mend broken APFS containers and open FileVault volumes with your key. When the storage is soldered down, as on T2 and Apple-silicon Macs, that isn't work we can take on.

More on Mac & MacBook recovery →
// laptop & pc recovery

Recovering a laptop or PC.

A Windows laptop or PC that won't boot usually still holds your files intact — the real question is whether the drive is dying or it's only the operating system that's broken. Each demands wholly different handling, and mistaking a failing drive for a software hiccup is how recoverable data disappears.

!Warning signs
  • A clicking hard drive, or an SSD that's dropped off the system
  • A SMART alert on startup
  • Constant freezing that ends in no boot at all
  • No boot, or a blue screen before Windows loads
Do this
  • Determine whether it's a hard drive or SSD — that changes everything
  • On a SMART warning, back up now and swap the drive out
  • If the fault is the OS, your files are safe — have the drive imaged
Avoid this
  • Rebooting a drive that has begun clicking
  • Reinstalling Windows before your data is recovered
  • Pointing chkdsk or repair utilities at a drive that’s physically failing

We image the drive and recover from both dying mechanical disks and dead SSDs — Lenovo, HP, Dell and the rest.

More on laptop & PC recovery →
// raid & nas recovery

Recovering a RAID or NAS.

Redundancy is what RAID arrays and NAS boxes buy you — enough slack to ride out one failed disk — but it isn't a backup. Things unravel when a second disk drops, or a rebuild runs onto a disk already on its way out. The single worst move is allowing a rebuild or re-initialise onto a dying disk — it can write over the very data you're hoping to save.

!Warning signs
  • Two or more disks have failed
  • A rebuild has failed, or the controller has died
  • A Synology or QNAP reports 'volume crashed'
  • The array shows as degraded, or has gone offline
Do this
  • Halt everything — no rebuild, no re-initialising
  • Pull each disk and mark its slot position (1, 2, 3 and on)
  • Send them all in, the failed ones included
Avoid this
  • Forcing the volume online, or shuffling disk order
  • Factory-resetting the NAS unit
  • Rebuilding onto a weak or already-dying disk
What to send: the bare drives only, not the enclosure or controller. Pull them yourself and mark each with its slot number — we rely on that sequence to reconstruct the array properly. The NAS recovery page has more on the usual Synology and QNAP boxes.

Every disk is imaged read-only; we then reconstruct the stripe, parity and disk order virtually and repair the file system on top — whatever the vendor.

More on RAID recovery →
// before it happens

Best practice: protect your data.

The cheapest recovery is the one you never need. A few habits keep your data safe long before anything breaks.

01

Follow the 3-2-1 rule

Hold three copies of anything you can't lose, across two different media types, with one kept off-site or in the cloud. One drive alone is never a backup.

02

Test your backups

An untested backup isn't really a backup at all — it's a hope. Now and then, actually open a file from it and check it works.

03

Act on early warnings

Strange noises, constant freezes, files that won't open, SMART warnings — that's a drive asking for help. Back it up and replace it before it goes for good.

04

Mind your SSDs

Because TRIM wipes deleted data within minutes, act fast after an accidental delete on an SSD. And never leave one as your sole copy, unpowered, for months — flash slowly loses charge.

05

Handle drives gently

Heat, drops, static and liquid all kill drives. Keep them cushioned, cool and dry, shut them off before you move them, and ground yourself before handling bare boards.

06

Protect against power

A surge protector — better yet a UPS for desktops and NAS units — buffers the surges and abrupt outages that scramble file systems and cook boards.

// don't believe it

Myths, busted.

The web is full of "quick fixes" that cause more harm than good. These are the ones we see wreck the most drives.

"The freezer will revive a dead drive."
A dated trick that now does far more harm than good: thermal shock and condensation wreck the electronics and platters. Leave it at room temperature and send it over.
"Recovery software always works."
Software only tackles logical faults on a healthy drive. On a physically failing one it holds power to the drive and worsens things — if it sounds or acts wrong, stop.
"A tap sorts out a clicking drive."
That clicking is the heads going, and each spin shaves a little more off the platters. Shaking or tapping only hastens the damage — switch it off and leave it be.
"Deleted means gone for good."
On a hard drive, deleted data generally lasts until something overwrites it, so stop using it. On an SSD, TRIM can erase it within minutes, so move at once.
"RAID means I'm backed up."
RAID guards against one disk dying — not against corruption, deletion, ransomware or a botched rebuild. That's redundancy, not a backup; you still need a separate copy.
"A reinstall won't touch my files."
A reinstall writes straight over the areas your lost files occupy. If the data matters, recover it first and reinstall afterwards.
// when you're ready

Not sure what you've got? Let us take a look.

Every recovery opens with a free written diagnostic. We'll tell you what can come back and what it'll cost before a penny becomes chargeable — and for most jobs, no fix means no fee.

Drop off at Building 2, Ground Floor, Guildford GU2 8XH · or post insured · Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm